Whether you’re looking for the best speargun for beginners or you’re a veteran in the underwater field, one important fact remains constant: you need to choose the right spearfishing equipment for the job. Specifically, you need to choose the right speargun.
If you’re looking for a comprehensive guide to help you do just that, our spearfishing experts have shared some of their tips. Keep reading to learn what it takes to select the right speargun for your personal spearfishing needs.
Types of Spearguns
Before we get into selection criteria, it’s crucial to get the basics down so you can be sure you choose the right speargun. Basic number one: there are three types of spearguns leading the market today. Those two types of spearguns are pneumatic and band powered. Let’s take a quick look at some of the key identifiers of each type of speargun.
- Pneumatic Spearguns – These spearguns were popular during the 1960s and 1970s, but are only used in a few parts of the world today. Many divers preferred these guns originally because they fired with minimal recoil and allowed divers to make longer-range shots with more accuracy. The power of this model is limited to the strength of the diver using it. These spearguns also require regular maintenance in order to maintain maximum performance.
- Traditional Band Powered Spearguns – One advantage of operating a band powered speargun is its nearly complete silence when firing. Considering how easy it is to both maintain and use this piece of spearfishing equipment, it’s no wonder most underwater hunters prefer it to old school pneumatic spearguns.
- Roller Spearguns – Roller spearguns have been around since the beginning of spearfishing, though new improvements in materials and designs have fueled a return in their popularity. While also powered by large rubber bands, roller spearguns pull the rubber and shaft over rollers mounted at the front of the gun. The advantage here is that the bands apply steady and consistent energy to the shaft allowing for a longer stroke than traditional spearguns. Another advantage is that these guns have relatively no recoil, as the rubber and shaft’s energy cancel each other out.
Components to Consider
Of course, there are still a few considerations to make after you’ve decided which type of speargun you’ll be using. Like all spearfishing gear there is no universal speargun solution for everyone. It comes down to a matter of personal preference and abilities. There are moving parts when it comes to your speargun. Let’s dive in!
- Speargun Length – The length of your speargun will rely on several factors. Most importantly it will rely on the type and size of fish you’re hunting. If you’re hunting in cramped spaces like caves or poor visibility, you’ll want a speargun in the 70cm to 90cm range. If you’re hunting for big game in open water, you’ll probably prefer a 150cm to 165cm speargun, for additional range to hit the fish.
- Shaft Tip – Of course, one of the most important aspects of a speargun is the spear itself. The most important part of the shaft is the tip. There are two commonly found spear tips, the Flopper and the Slip Tip. The flopper shaft uses a hinged barb that deploys after the shaft passes through the fish. A slip-tip detaches from the shat after penetrating the fish yet remains attached to the shaft with either spectra or wire leader. For reef fish floppers are predominately preferred where as for blue water fish and more delicate fish, slip-tips are preferred.
- Speargun Bands – When selecting your speargun bands, the two most important factors to consider are stretch and diameter. Shorter bands require more strength to load, but they also provide more power when shooting.
Ultimately, there’s a near endless amount of customization when it comes to selecting the perfect speargun. We haven’t even discussed our homemade speargun equipment yet. These essential pieces of spearfishing equipment could make or break your experience, so make sure you’re choosing wisely.
If you’re a beginner, you want to go with equipment that is easy to use and maintain. For more information and a wide range of spearfishing gear for beginners and experts alike, contact Neptonics today.
Properly Loading Your Speargun – Band Size, Load Assists, and More
Properly loading your speargun can be a challenge. There are a couple techniques and tools that make loading a speargun easier. There are also different material option of bands that can make loading your speargun bands easier or harder.
Proper Loading Technique
Most spearguns can be loaded using proper technique rather than brute force. Trying to load a speargun through brute force alone can result in some challenges. Loading a speargun requires a few muscle groups that are not the most common exercises in normal life. See this video on proper speargun loading technique for rear handle spearguns.
The band length is the biggest factor that makes a band difficult to pull back. That being said, your spear shaft won’t hit the fish hard enough to penetrate without the right length spear shaft. The optimal stretch for a speargun band is 350% stretch. The formula to find the length your bands should be is:
This formula applies to all the different diameter bands. Making your bands stretch more than 350% doesn’t dramatically increase the power you are adding to your spear shaft. Making longer bands reduces the power to the spear shaft. If you reduce the power of your bands too much you won’t be able to shoot through your fish.
There are several thickness band options available for your speargun. The thickness of the bands determines the amount of stored energy in the bands. 9/16” (14mm) bands store approximately 90 pounds of force per band. 5/8” (16mm) bands store about 110 pounds of force per band. 3/4” (19mm) bands store 130 pounds of force per band. The challenge with bigger bands is it takes that much force per band to load them. Some divers prefer to have a larger number of easier bands, other divers prefer one hard to pull band. Past injuries or surgeries may impact your choice on bands. Make sure your speargun is designed to accept your band diameter of choice before purchasing. Some muzzles may not be able to accept some larger band diameters.
Small ID Bands
In the past few years Small Internal Diameter (ID) bands have increased in popularity. The idea behind them is the bands have more rubber inside them, which adds more stored energy to smaller bands. This makes the bands a little harder to load than the standard ID bands. Many people feel their spear accelerates faster as a result of the smaller diameter bands.
Load assists are particularly helpful if you have had some type of shoulder injury or surgery. They are also beneficial for loading very long spearguns or roller spearguns. The idea is you can hook the load assist to the band’s wishbone and load the load assist to the spear notch. Then you can finish the band load with the band already partially loaded.
Some spear shafts can be customized to have additional loading tabs added further forward on the spear shaft. These are supposed to work in a similar way to the load assists, in that you partially load your speargun in order to get into a better position to complete the load. They are frequently called ‘cheater tabs’ because they make it easier to load the speargun. The term is is just so guys can give each other a hard time. In reality they help folks that have had injuries or surgeries that would otherwise keep them from properly loading their spearguns.
The Secret to Landing Big Fish Spearfishing!
What’s the secret to landing a trophy fish spearfishing? Customers ask us this question all the time. The answer is very simple—pay attention to the details on your gear.
On a simple day trip, always check your rigging. Your bands’ wishbones should be solid and the rubber free of dry-rot. Your shaft should be straight. Make sure your slip-tip is sitting properly on the base. Cable needs to be kink free and spectra cannot be frayed. If you forget to check these details when hunting the common small fish (sheephead, calico bass, hogfish, or mangrove snapper), you may have no problems landing them. However, if you forget any of these when the 50+ pound white sea bass or monster cobia makes an appearance, your prize may swim away with a trophy of its own!
If it’s a big blue-water trip, check everything, then check it all again! If your shooting line is cable, it should be new and double crimped, if it’s dyneema/spectra, it needs to be free of abrasions, tears, and UV exposure. Slip-tips with spectra/cable need to be in new condition, just like the shooting line. Check your tuna clips, as they are a moving part and can wear out. Swivels should be corrosion-free as well.
The monster fish in blue water are so powerful that it is hard to believe until you witness it. Your gear is tested to its limit on these less common, big fish (wahoo, yellowfin tuna, bluefin tuna, dogtooth tuna, or marlin). These fish take off with lighting speed and the battle can last for 2 hours or more. If there is a weak spot in your gear, these big fish will find it. You will regret not paying attention to those details and forever tell the story about the one that got away!
You never know what is going to swim by you on any day of diving. Your trophy fish can be speared on a simple day trip or a big blue-water trip, so be prepared on every adventure by checking the details on your gear!
Mentoring New Freedivers – Why Its Important to Bring New People Into The Sport
Freediving and spearfishing are rapidly growing in popularity all over the world. It makes sense, these sports are too much fun not to participate in. The simplicity of holding your breath and harvesting your own food is an easily appreciated activity. With all that being said, there are defiantly some learning curves to freediving and spearfishing. Mentoring new freedivers is an integral part of growing and improving the sport. Finding a good mentor or instructor makes a huge difference to the safety and level of enjoyment from diving.
Why We Need To Grow The Sport
With the sport growing the way it is, we need to make sure it grows the way we want it to. It is easy for experienced divers to brush off new divers as a nuisance. In some respects they are. But they are the future of the sport, and if we neglect new divers they won’t learn the etiquette that we hope to see in every diver. Keep that in mind next time you meet someone starting out and think about showing them the ropes.
How To Approach Mentors
If you are new to freediving or spearfishing there are defiantly a couple ways to meet new people that can help you learn what you are doing. The first path into the sport is to take a freediving course. Not all instructors are made equally, so ask questions and get a feel for the instructor before signing up. The most important in a good instructor is their ability to convey information in an accessible way. You should also seek out a safety conscious instructor. Beyond that, just try and find an instructor with a style and attitude that meets your comfort.
Clubs and Organizations
An instructor can also be a wealth of knowledge about resources and groups in your area for free divers. Clubs and training groups are one of the greatest methods of finding a good group of divers and potential mentors. The best practice for people getting into the sport is to accept that you have a lot to learn. That means you shouldn’t act like you know everything about the sport because you took on two or three day freediving course last weekend. There are aspects of diving that will never be covered in a course. Be willing to learn from other divers, but always remember the safety aspects of your free dive course in everything you do.
Dive Shops and Charters
Dive shops and the dive trips they host are another great way to to meet new divers. The charter boats themselves also offer a great opportunity to meet other divers and potential mentors, especially on split trips. Many shops and charters offer the opportunity to take courses or guide you on a trip. Additionally, dive shops tend to attract other divers. You can often find people willing to assist you in these locations.
The Mentor and Mentee Relationship
Mentor and Mentee relationships tend to develop organically. It would be a little awkward id a new diver just walked up to someone with more experience and just said “Hey, would you like to be my mentor?”. Typically these things start with a few questions about how to do something better, or tips on improvement. Be open to critique and suggestions.
How To Mentor
Once you develop some experience it is easy to get in your own rhythm with your group of divers. Remember you didn’t get to that point by yourself. When a newer diver approaches you don’t be a jerk. It sounds simple, but just go onto any forum on the internet and see the toxic environment that tends to develop around people asking questions because they are new. Just be a decent person and help new people out form time to time. I’m not saying you need to take every new person that asks out on your boat to mess up your day. There defiantly needs to be a balance. Just remember that we do want the sport to grow. With that said, the best way to get it to grow the way we want is to help guide it in that direction. Mentoring new freedivers can end up being one of the more rewarding experiences within the sport.
Be Courteous to One Another
The short version is to just be nice to one another. Whether you are starting out or have several decades of experience just try to be helpful to one another.
Spearfishing is one of the most dangerous sports an adventurer can pursue. The following will help you safely navigate the pursuit of underwater hunting.
- Notify a responsible person of your dive plans just in case you don’t return on time so they know when to call for search and recovery and where to tell them to search. Remember to let them know you have safely returned.
- ALWAYS DIVE WITH A BUDDY. There are a host of spearfishing dangers that everyone should be aware of. First and most important is to always dive with a buddy, never alone.
- Activate the quick release in your weight belt if yo have an emergency.
- Speargun Safety – Always treat your speargun like it is a loaded gun! When talking to your partner on the surface, don’t put your gun under your arm or between your legs because you are now pointing a loaded gun at him – not a good thing. Don’t bring a loaded gun onto the boat, even if you are just quickly hoping spots. It just isn’t worth the risk.
- Make positive identification on the fish, and what is behind the fish, before you pull the trigger. It may save your thumb, your gun, your life, or your dive buddy’s life.
- Take a Freediving Class to learn about the principals of freediving and how to save your dive buddy.
- Get yourself and your dive buddy trained in CPR and First Aide.
- Be aware of the topography of the location you are diving. Understand that the more water that is being restricted, the stronger the current. That is why there is more current near pinnacles, underwater walls, islands and points.
- Know the tide tables for the day and expect the current to be stronger when the slope of the tide is highest. Also watch for the current to change directions when the tide changes but sometimes it will just get stronger with a tide change
- Work out for diving. It is a sport and you need to be an athlete. Train like your life depends on it … because it does.
- If you are a beginner, don’t plan a full 5-6 hour competitive dive tournament. Plan to do half the dive. Work up to longer dive days.
- Make sure that you are properly weighted for your spearfishing wetsuit and dive conditions.
- Beware of the other ocean predators in the environment you are diving in, not just sharks. Seals, barracuda, and even large groupers are capable of taking your fish and could potentially get entangled in your gear.
- Stay hydrated. Proper hydration is critical for proper equalization.
- Divers can be in danger from inattentive boaters, especially in heavy boat traffic areas. A float with a flag and a floatline helps keep boaters aware of divers in the water.
Speargun Safety – The Basics
Why Speargun Safety is Important
Spearfishing is one of the most fun sports you can participate in. That being said, there are risks involved. Speargun safety is one of the most fundamental aspects of preventing spearfishing accidents. New divers always think that their greatest risks are from sharks or other environmental issues, but the reality is your greatest risks come from other divers. Every few months there seems to be a diver that is shot with their own or another divers speargun. There are a couple rules you can impose on yourself that will prevent any problems with this.
The Basic Rules
- Never load a speargun out of the water
- Do not fire a speargun out of water
- Never point a speargun at anything you do not want to kill
- Keep you finger away from the trigger until you are ready to shoot
- Know what is behind your target
- Ensure there are not tangles in your rigging
- Never rely on the speargun safety
A Better Breakdown
Here is a more in depth breakdown of why these rules are so important.
Use Out of The Water
Never load or fire a speargun out of the water. Spearguns need water resistance to function properly. The amount of force stored in the bands is capable of shooting a spear up to 20 feet underwater. These same bands out of the water can launch these spears over 200 feet. There is no safe way to control that kind of shot.
Speargun Safety Compared to Firearm Safety
Most of the other rules are taken from basic firearm safety, but the same rules apply with spearguns. It stands to reason that you can’t shoot your buddy if you never point your speargun at them. That means never pulling the trigger of a fish directly between you and your buddy. Accidentally hitting you dive buddy with a spear is much less likely if you keep your finger away from the trigger until you are ready to shoot. That being said, The trigger can get caught on tons of things in the underwater environment. Be aware of your surroundings and maintain control of your speargun, especially if it is loaded.
Speargun Specific Considerations
Tangles in the shooting lines and bands are a major concern. This can be catastrophic because of the amount of force involved and extremely dangerous to all the divers in the vicinity. Always load your speargun properly.
The last key element is to never rely on your spearguns safety. Speargun safeties are notorious for failing. Many custom gun builder do not even bother installing them into their spearguns because they can be so frustrating.
Freedive Training: Cardio, Intervals, CO2 and O2 Tables
Freevive training can be a complicated process for many people. Just about every dive will agree that the best way to train for breeding is to freedive. Nothing beats in water experience. Unfortunately, not everyone has the time or access to be in the water as much as we would like. Fortunately there are several ways to train for freedivng outside of being in the water. It should be noted that these training techniques try to help the same muscle groups and mental skills that are helpful in freediving. Remember, never train freediving in the water without a dive buddy that understands rescue protocol.
Cardio: How Endurance Improves Freediving
There are a lucky group of people that actually enjoy cardio. Those people are widely considered crazy by the rest of us. The rest of us just need to grin and bear it when we are doing cardio and recognize that doing some of it will help us enjoy other hobbies. The biggest benefit of cardio in freediving is building up endurance. There is nothing worse than getting in the water in a strong current and struggling to be able to dive because you are running out of energy on the surface. Implementing a regular cardio routine has untold benefits to allowing you to enjoy a long day in the water. Some great activities that help also build up you leg muscles are swimming, biking, and of course running.
Intervals: Improving Recovery and Anaerobic Exercise
If there is anything more unpleasant to train than cardio it has to be intervals. It takes the unpleasantness of cardio and magnifies it with the feeling like your heart and lungs are going to explode. For those of you unfamiliar with Interval workouts the more familiar term is sprints. Sprints can be applied to any of the previously mentioned cardio exercises. Basically just push yourself further than you can sustain.
If you are running you can do distance intervals or timing intervals. Runt to a light pole, walk to the next light pole, or run 30 seconds then walk 60 seconds. Swimming can be swimming hard for a lap, recover for a lap. This process is designed to spike your heart rate and helps train your body to recover from anaerobic exercises quicker. Anaerobic exercise is any exercise that uses more oxygen than your body can replace in the amount of time the exercise continues. You can understand how this type of exercise could be helpful I training for freediving.
CO2 and O2 Tables: Training the Mind to Accept Discomfort
CO2 and O2 tables are useful tool in getting your body used to holding its breath. They eat h work in different ways to improve this goal.
CO2 tables focus on getting a build up of CO2 in your body. ?This helps your body become accustomed to that discomfort that makes your mind think you need to breathe. It is not a lack of oxygen that makes you think you need to breathe, but the build up of CO2. By regularly exposing your body to increased levels of CO2 it pushes your mental limits of what your body considers normal. The method of doing this is typically to hold your breath for a consistent amount of time and to reduce the amount of time you breath up before holding your breath.
O2 Tables work on a similar principle but in an inverse way. O2 tables allow for a more gradual buildup of CO2 by having a consistent breath up and holding your breath for longer and longer intervals.
Freediving Safety – The Buddy System and Spearfishing
In all underwater sport it is a safe practice to participate in the buddy system. Two or three divers helping one another is significantly safer than an individual diving on their own. The buddy system improves dramatically when you communicate expectations of buddies in the water ahead of time. If done correctly, the buddy system can even help your group land more fish.
How the Buddy System Saves Lives
The most important reason to use the Buddy System is the fact that is can and does save lives. The greatest risk that free divers and spearos face while diving is shallow water blackout. If you are unfamiliar with this term you should take a freediving course to educate yourself on the risks of freediving. Almost all shallow water blackout incidents occur at the surface or within 15 feet of the surface. That means an attentive dive buddy can prevent almost all potential shallow water blackout fatalities if they know how to act in this emergency. Again, if you haven’t already you should take a freediving course to learn the skills necessary to save yourself or your dive buddy.
Implementing and Improving It
Any group of friends is going to have different strategies in their given dive location. There can be mixed skill levels, or separate goals in any given group. Communicating expectations before you get in the water is a valuable practice.
Two Up, One Down Method
Some groups prefer to use the Two Up, One Down method in place which allows someone to always be underwater. As the name implies, you have one diver conducting a dive. The second person is acting as the dive safety and doing their breath-up. The third diver is conducting their recovery after their last dive. This is a good system to implement in a group of newer divers, or if the group is diving in deeper water where you may need longer recovery times.
One Up, One Down Method
The One Up, One Down Method is also popular. It allows for a smaller amount of diver pressure in the chosen dive site. This does require both divers to act as more attentive dive buddies and to multi-task a little more. To do this method properly the safety needs to stay at the surface with the recovering diver for a minimum of 30 seconds to ensure the diver does not blackout. This is a better practice for shallower water, where you have shorter recovery times. A proper timing device makes this method even safer. It is helpful to have some type of dive computer to make sure you and your dive buddy are doing proper recoveries.
How the Buddy System Helps Land More Fish
If you thin, about spearfishing as a group activity, as you should, working as a team helps land more fish. There are countless examples of how working as a team does this, but we will touch on a few common situations.
It is very common for a diver to take a long shot on a fish at the end of their dive. It is not always the best practice, but sometimes it’s the shot you get. These shots often turn into a fish that goes into a rock, or ledge, or inside whatever structure is nearby. If you are diving by yourself (Don’t do that) you have to come to the surface and do a long breath-up before you can safely dive back down. In that time the fish can work its way off the spear shaft or get taxed by another creature. If your dive buddy is right there on the surface they can help pull your fish out of the rock for you. You owe them one hell of a thank you afterwards because they just used one of their dives to help you, but that’s what good buddies do.
Sharks and Other Creatures
If you take the previous situation but you add sharks or other animals that want to take your fish you can have some challenges if you are by yourself. A good buddy can help fend off these tax collectors by putting themselves between the animal and your fish. Typically acting aggressively towards these animals helps keep them at bay. It is far from a guarantee, but it does usually help land the fish. There is significant risk involved in putting yourself between a predator and a potential food source. This is not a paragraph recommending this method, it is just explaining something some divers do.
The Importance of Not Drowning – How to Properly Weight Yourself
The first thing you should consider is to take a freediving course from a qualified instructor. This article does not in any way, shape, or form replace proper training. The article is simply going over some basic weighting principles to help increase safe freediving and spearfishing practices. This article isn’t designed to teach you every element of how or why you need to be properly weighted. It is just a quick article about the mechanics of being properly weighted.
Why Proper Weighting is Important
The reason you should always be properly weighted while freediving is the risk of shallow water blackout. Blackouts are one of the biggest risks we face as freedivers. This article is not going to go into the details of how, why or what happen during a shallow water blackout in great detail. That being said, the result of a shallow water blackout is temporary unconsciousness and a passive exhale (loss of control of the airway) at the surface. The combination of these two things put a diver at great risk of drowning. It also allows us to plan on how to weight ourselves on the surface. We want to float at the surface after a passive exhale.
How to Determine How Much Weight You Need
The best way to determine the amount of weight you need on your weight belt is to start small. Every diver is different and the amount of weight you need is different between salt and fresh water. The thickness of your wetsuit is also a factor in how buoyant you are. That means a thicker suit will need more lead weight to ballast a diver. It is a good idea to have a few solid weights and possibly a few quick weights to allow for quick adjustments in the water.
At the surface start with a few pound of lead on your belt and do a passive exhale. A passive exhale is just a light exhale, like a normal breath. Don’t try and blow all the air out of your lungs and see if you sink. Without kicking your fins you should be floating roughly at eye level, or all least that is your goal for proper weighting. You will likely need to make small adjustments to get to this point in the water.
How To Double Check
Another way to confirm you have the correct amount of lead weight on your dive belt is to dive down to 30 feet and see if you are neutrally buoyant. If you are sinking like a stone at that depth you are probably over weighted. If you find yourself floating up to the surface without kicking you might need to add a few more pounds of lead.
Again, if you need this article you should reach out to a qualified freedive instructor and get certified to freedive. The information in a freedive course will help make you a better and safer diver, not to mention a better dive buddy.
Bluewater Spearfishing Basics
Bluewater spearfishing has its challenges. It is simultaneously the most boring and exciting spearfishing there is. It does require its own collection of equipment as well as techniques.
Bluewater spearfishing is challenging because the fish are elusive. Pelagic species are highly migratory, live in deep water, and are fast predatory fish. In order to target these species you have to have infinite patience while drifting through infinitely deep, blue water. There is a delayed gratification to bluewater spearfishing. Typically, you spend eight to ten hours a day drifting over structure you will never see, hoping your boat driver dropped you on the right drift. If you are lucky you will have a few seconds of excitement just seeing your target species. If you hit the jackpot those seconds of excitement are followed by either a few minutes or several hours of absolute insanity as you attempt to land a fish of a lifetime.
Spearfishing for Bluewater species still requires the basics you need for any freediving. It does require a couple other pieces of equipment specific to hunting these giant pelagic species.
The first difference is a larger speargun. Many pelagic species are wary of predation, and simply won’t get close enough to hunt with shorter spearguns. Bluewater spearguns tend to be both longer and wider. They are larger because they need to compensate for the recoil of additional bands and larger spear shafts. For a more detailed explanation check out this article. The spear shaft used with the Bluewater gun will most likely require a slip-tip to allow the fish to fight without tearing a hole in itself.
Floats and Floatlines
After that, you will need to look into a float and floatline setup. The type of float and floatline will be dependent on both the species as well as your own abilities. Larger fish will need multiple or larger floats as well a bungees to connect them. Smaller or more delicate fish will need smaller floats to prevent too much back pressure causing the slip-tip to pull out. For a more detailed explanation on choosing the right float and floatline check out the linked articles.
Bluewater Spearfishing Rigging and Accessories
Beyond the speargun and floats you have some choices between types of rigging as well as a few accessories that can help you land your fish a bit easier. Most bluewater spearos have adopted a breakaway setup to allow them to keep their speargun with them and to streamline their bluewater setup. For more information on that check out this article.
One of the accessories that comes in handy to bring the fish in on your drifts is a flasher. There are several types of flashers and all of them help. A flasher is some type of shiny object or collection of objects designed to look like bait fish in a ball. Because pelagic species are usually highly opportunistic predatory fish they often come in to check out feeding opportunities. A group of divers may try several flasher rigs within a group using flasher floats set to depth, as well as throw flashers to target specific fish as they come in. Check out this video of our throw flashers doing the job.
An often underrated pice of equipment is the floatline clutch. These large fish often will make multiple runs as you start to pull them in. A floatline clutch helps you keep the progress you have made against your fish.
Bluewater Spearfishing Techniques
Diving as a buddy group is critically important in all diving from a safety perspective. That is never more true than in bluewater spearfishing. Working as a team helps bring in more fish because there are more people to work the flashers and flasher floats as people dive. This is also critical for safety, as bluewater spearfishing supplies its own entanglement hazards. Be ready to help your buddy no mater what happens.
The most common form of bluewater spearfishing is drift diving. Pelagic species tend to be most active in heavy current and anchoring a boat and effectively diving in these conditions are challenging at best. It does take a competent boat driver to put a group of divers up-current of the targeted structure and monitor divers as they do their drift. A real quality boat driver can let divers keep their floats and flatlines in the water without running over the flatlines or getting them tangled in the propellers.
If you are anchored up in an area without too much current you may have the option to chum. A warning about chum; you will encounter several sharks. A combination of sand, menhaden oil, oatmeal flakes, ground or chunked up fish, and glass minnows if you can find them, are a sure way to bring fish up into the water column. It is also a sure way to bring in sharks too.
Learn about the species you are targeting. Research what depths they tend to swim. Determine if moon phase or water temperature impact how the fish act. Try and identify reasons or signals of where the fish may aggregate. If bait is hitting the surface or birds are chasing bait at the surface that may be an indicator of pelagic species chasing bait fish near the surface where divers may be able to reach them. Bluewater spearfishing is a great opportunity to become more familiar with fish behavior through research combined with your own experiences.